They Certainly Can Cook in the South

They Certainly Can Cook in the South

I know these are late posts, but now that I've got a bit of downtime, I wanted to catch up.

The South is famous for hospitality and food. We've experience both on our journey.

In Pickwick Dam, Tennessee, we had dinner at a place called Freddy T's. The atmosphere was a bit like Margaritaville Meets Pirates of the Caribbean. It was quirky and fun, and the food (and margaritas) quite good.

Our second dinner in Pickwick Dam was at John's Pier.  Now, I love shrimp any way you cook them, but peel and eat are my favorite. These were the BEST I've had in a very, very long time. Plump, fresh and with a kick-a** cocktail sauce for dipping, I could have eaten more and called it dinner. But for dinner I had a great smothered chicken, and Jason had Chicken Cordon Pier, their version of chicken cordon bleu.  If you're ever in Pickwick Dam, Tennessee, either place is a winner.

On both Day Seven and Day Eight, we went to Duff's Tavern and Grille, located on the 1300 block of Washington Street in Vicksburg. 

For lunch, I had red beans and rice with chorizo sausage and the best gumbo I've had since New Orleans, so good, in fact that I had it again for dinner on Friday! Jason and I also shared some fried pickles...yes, fried pickles. We'd seen them on several menus in the past few days, we just had to try them. The batter was a southern fried chicken batter, and they came heaped on a plate with a side of ranch dressing, Excellent!  Jason had a filet and shrimp scampi in a butter and garlic sauce so good, I had to write about it. I had a pecan crusted catfish with a brown butter sauces and for dessert, a pecan bread pudding with a Jack Daniels sauce, served warm with just enough cream dripping over top. It was so good, it was indecent!!!

A quick ride from the National Monument Park, Duff's is a definite winner!!

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Day Eight: Vicksburg National Monument Park

Day Eight: Vicksburg National Monument Park

Vicksburg was more than just a battle - it was a siege - a military waiting game, and marked a critical turning point in the course of the Civil War.

Control of the city was crucial, as Vicksburg was considered a defensive position on the Mississippi River. In May 1862, Confederate general Martin Luther Smith began to fortify the city. It was soon protected by 172 mounted guns forming a ring around the city.

President Lincoln believed the war could not be won without Vicksburg, and in October 1862, Major General US Grant and LT. General John C. Pemberton began their strategic maneuvering for the city.

In March 1863, grant started his army out and in May  waged several battles in Mississippi on his way to Vicksburg, defeating Pemberton's Army of Vicksburg near Port Gibson, Raymond and Jackson, the state capital. On May 16, 1863 he defeated Pemberton at Champion Hill in the bloodiest battle of the campaign, and on May 18, he set his site on Vicksburg.

Grant launched two attacks - May 19 and again on May 22. Both failed to breach the significant Confederate works. Grant called off the attacks and determined to take the city be siege.

Grant's army held the Confederates in Vicksburg, creating mines and shelling their positions on land and using gunboats from the river. On July 4, 1863, after 46 days under siege, Pemberton finally surrendered.

The Monument Park contains over 1600 monuments to the troops that fought on the hallowed ground that is Vicksburg. The landscape is as it was when the battle was waged, except for the trees, which were planted by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930's to help prevent erosion. Cannons are everywhere - and while many are not the artillery used in the battle, they were all used at some time during the war.

Also at Vicksburg is the largest National Military Cemetery of Union dead, and the USS Cairo, the first gunboat sunk by torpedo. It sunk in 12 minutes of December 12, 1862 in the Yazoo River. No lives were lost. The vessel, and thousands of artifacts were  recovered from the river, and are on display.

I wasn't aware of the enormity of the site, or the vast number of casualties. The auto tour is 16  (yes.. 16) miles around the 1800 acre battlefield. Before we started out, Jason and I bought the Vicksburg Expedition Guide by TravelBrains - a two and a half hour audio tour of the battle and the park. Like in Shiloh, it brought the sounds of the battle and the voices of those who witnessed it to life.

If you get to Vicksburg, plan at least two days. We did the battlefield tour in a full day, (and a two hour preview yesterday) which left no time for the Confederate Cemetery (Soldier's Rest, a few miles away), the Old Courthouse Museum, which was built in 1858 and survived the war with minimal damage, the Martha Vick house, built for the unmarried daughter of the city's founder, Newit Vick, and a host of other antebellum mansions and non-military attractions, like the Biedenharn Coca-Cola Museum.

Another successful day on the Civil War Harley tour.

Jason needs the computer to chart tomorrow's route across Mississippi and Alabama, so look for the Vicksburg pictures on Saturday.

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The Ride to Vicksburg

The Ride to Vicksburg

We made it to Vicksburg earlier today, and the battlefield is literally across the street from our hotel. I'm so excited.

We took a quick loop... quick isn't exactly the word.. it took an hour with only two stops.. just to get the lay of the land.

I've loaded a bunch of pictures and will tell all about the ride here and the Natchez Trace Parkway tomorrow.

It's going to be an amazing day!

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